Barolo 2001 (Part 2) March 11th , 2007
This tasting focussed on the wines of only 2 communes---Monforte d'Alba and Serralunga which allowed us to understand the zonal variation in character of the wines . Though the wines were tasted blind in groups of 3 it was quite easy to discern which group was which . On this intellectual exercise the entire group scored 100 . With the exception of 2 wines, and a corked wine, the tasting once again showed that 2001 vintage was not only exceptional but that more producers have, with recent experience competing on the world stage for recognition and accolades , discovered flair and style without compromising the inherent character of the region. Whereas in the past there would have be many examples of overly tannic wines without compensating depth, or musty bottles with unclean aromas, it appears that Barolo has finally arrived to take center stage with a run of fine vintages culminating with this --- the 2001 vintage. Even then the best may be yet to come .
Wines were double- decanted (bottle to decanter and back) 3 hours prior to tasting and tasted from Riedel Vinum Red Glasses. My tasting notes are mostly from the blind tasting part and with dinner but also include tasting impressions from tasting of the leftover wine the next day or in some cases 2 days later. The first score is that of my first impression and the second score (either up or down) is from later retastings of the wine.

MONFORTE D’ALBA

Elio Grasso Gavarini (Vigna Chiniera)
Elio Grasso Ginestra (Casa Mate)
Poderi Colla Dardi (La Rose Bussia)
Oddero Bussia (Mondoca)
Manzone Gramolere (Bricat)
G.Mascarello Santo Stefano di Perno

SERRALUNGA

Boasso Gabutti
Massolino Parafada
Guido Porro Lazzairasco
Schiavenza Broglio
Conterno Francia
Ascheri Sorano (Bricco/Coste)


Dinner Menu:
1. Chanterelle and Morel (Fall into Spring) Risotto
2. Apple and Root Vegetable Ragout with Crepes stuffed w Confit Duck
3 Roast “Piedmont” Short Loin of Beef with Broccoli Rape
4 Selection of Cheeses from Piedmont:
Bocconcini di Capra (Alta Langa), Robbiola Tre Latte (Fior di Langa)
Bra Duoro and from Tuscany “Cacio al Tartufo” (S.Gimignano)


Elio Grasso Gavarini--Vigna Chiniera: Gorgeous nose redolent of flowers (particularly roses the next day) and brimming with bright red fruits; on the palate the wine begins with a firm attack and then slowly leaks delicious vibrant fruit from under a cloak of tannin. The tannins are soft and perfectly ripe. Mouthfilling wine which, though it can be drunk now with 3-4 hrs decanting, would benefit from another 3-4 years of aging. A restrained Beauty. 91+ points

Manzone Gramolere Le Bricat: More organic than the previous wine it is earthier and less exuberant on the nose holding it close to the vest as it were; meaty and fairly rich on the palate it is restrained as it moves along to a long, somewhat powerful finish marked by velvety tannins . Though excellent with food it is a bit too compact and boxed in. 89-90 points

Mascarello, G Santa Stefano di Perno: Palish garnet; nose is uninterestingly brambly and faintly kirsch-like; palate is diffuse with a decided lack of concentration (same with the Mon Privato in part 1) and there is not much to write about one way or the other. A touch of sulfur could be holding the wine down but other than being a pleasant wine it is rather desultory (Susan Glass' descriptor which is most apt). 86-87 points

Porro, Guido Lazzairasco: Several shades darker than any of the previous wines, the nose leaps from the glass with scents of blue and black fruits with some tarry notes, as well as hints of chicory; on the palate there is remarkable density, velvety tannins and a sumptuous center. The wine seems to be a bit low in acidity but that is only because it is being smothered under the glycerine. Classically wrought wine with no modern excess. Over the next 2 days the wine still held sway revealing more of itself --- now roses and leather and a touch of game. Silky tannins were almost resolved. Excellent wine and a terrific value (under $40). 93-94 points

Massolino Parafada: Very Dark in color; rich, ripe and slightly oaky the nose announces itself with a not so subtle fanfare; with time there is even a hint of fading roses and talc (not unlike that of a Chateauneuf du Pape) ; profound on palate it is quite marked by tannin. Rich and broad it has dark chocolate flavors in the long finish. Later on with food, I found it edgy and tartaric (hard) and left searching for an extra dimension of complexity in this otherwise massive wine. This wine was the favorite of a majority of the group. 92-90 points

Schiavenza Broglio: Also very dark; compared to the others this is slightly rustic, without being pejorative, with cereal notes to the nose which has good intensity of fruit; chocolatey but also gamey, it is a chewy, old style wine which is quite backward with a finish that totally eschews fruit for the time being. Later it unfurls nicely to reveal a classically structured Barolo with potential to age a long time. Just not a wine for this decade. 89-91 points

Boasso Gabutti: Very dark; perfumed with the scent of lilacs and roses it shows hi-toned mineral elements. Medium bodied wine that is shallow in flavor but bright. With time it becomes tough and chewy and even less interesting. This may just need time but not sure it will be that much better when mature. 88-87 points.

Oddero Mondoca di Bussia: Classic Barolo scents of truffles, roses and earth; on the palate the wine displays excellent concentration but is not at all top heavy; tannins are layered over with deliciously ripe fruit that it is almost effortless to drink this wine; shade less impressive ( touch short in the finish) on subsequent tasting but a very good wine, nonetheless. 93-92 points

Podere Colla Dardi La Rose Bussia: CORKED

Ascheri Sorano (Bricco/Coste): Classic Barolo color with garnet core and orange edge; though closed on the nose it has a lovely intensity on the palate with delicious truffley character and a firm structure; well balanced this is sleek and powerful. It stayed pretty true to form even on subsequent days. Excellent wine. 93 points


Conterno, G Cascina Francia : Tight with earth and mushroom character it has a spicy character in the nose; powerful and dense fruit with oak tannins adding a strong counterpoint. This is a powerhouse of a wine. Intensity carries all the way to the finish. Even 48 hours later, the wine is still wound up and smokier and spicier than before and remarkably fresh. 93-94+ points


Grasso, E Ginestra Casa Mate : The most open knit nose of all the wines; exotic, minty and refined; loads of fruit , kirsch liquer, delicious and forward; without much tannic structure this wine is a bit too primary for my taste , particularly for laying down. Did not retaste because it was so delicious it was all consumed with dinner the same night (despite my admonition to the group to leave behind some for me to taste again). 90 points

Subsequent to the tasting the following wine was tasted and drunk with dinner

Giovanni Rosso Cerretta: Quite dark; primary fruit scents bubbling with vivacity; supple and perfumed on the palate it, like the Grasso Ginestra wine above, is short on tannin and long on immediacy. Not necessarily bad for a lesser cru. Compared to the above (masculine) wines from Serralunga this tastes like a Saint-Emilion from Bordeaux. A great wine for restaurants to showcase the 2001 Barolo vintage. 90 points.

Paolo Manzone Meriame: Ruby with orange rim; the nose is full of captivating scents of flowers with just the faintest hint of truffles and spice ( very Grand Cru Vosne-like); firm on entry it grips the tongue with terrific balance and poise; red fruits and leather and some anise; the wine is forward and flat-out delicious, which it manages to achieve without a hint of portliness. This does not need decanting to enjoy and it is my guess that it would be best enjoyed over the next 7-8 years. 94 points



Summary of wines ranked in order -- First Impression versus Later Impression

First / Later


1. Porro "Lazzairasco" (93) 1. Conterno "Cascina Francia" (94+)
2. Conterno "Cascina Francia" (93) 2. Porro "Lazzaraisco" (94)
This was not in the tasting but Paolo Manzone "Meriame" is also 94 points
3. Ascheri " Sorano" (93) 3.Ascheri " Sorano " (93)
4. Oddero " Monduca di Bussia" (93) 4. Oddero " Monduca d.Bussia" (92)
5. Massolino "Parafada" (92) 5. Grasso "Gavarini V.Chiniera" (91+)
6. Grasso "Gavarini V.Chiniera" (91+) 6. Schiavenza " Broglio" (91)
7. Grasso "Ginestra Casa Mate" (90) 7. Massolino "Parafada" (90)
8. Manzone "Gramolere Bricat" 8. Grasso "Ginestra Casa Mate" (90)