2005 Red Burgundies--Part 5 (Vosne & Chambolle)

March 16th, 2008: For some reason the wines of Vosne and Chambolle appeared on retailers shelves much later than those of other appellations. That they would be in various stages of shut-down was not lost on us, particularly after the Grand cru tasting showed that the wines were for the most part shutting down (Part 4). Luckily I get to taste leftovers the next day so it is not an impossible task to assess the wines with the benefit of prolonged aeration. Besides, our club has several Barolo afficionados, who are able enjoy wines even at their fiercest. There were 11 wines and they were poured BLIND in flights of 3 after an initial flight of 2.
Vosne
Beaumonts (Daniel Rion)
Beaumonts (Bertagna)
Beaumonts VV (Laurent)
Chaumes (Gros Freres)
Suchots (Lamarche)
Suchots (Girardin)
Suchots (Cacheux)

Chambolle
Village VV (Lignier-Michelot)
1er Cru Cuvee Jules (Virgile Lignier)
Baudes (Drouhin)
Gruenchers (D.Duband)

Menu:
Terrine of Guinea Hen with Indian Spices, Mesclun Salad

Duck Leg Confit, Carrot Sauce, Sauteed Scallion and Carrot

Rabbit Loin w Black Truffle Salsa, Sauteed Napa Cabbage and Brown Beech Mushrooms

Roast Beef Filet, Mashed Potatoes, Sauteed Mixed Greens

Selection of Cheeses: Petit Basque, Comté and Selles-s-Cher

1. Girardin Vosne Suchots: On first pass there was little to be gleaned from the nose--it was mostly taut and reserved. The palate was no different--it was unyieldingly tannic and muscular. With time (particularly the next day) the nose revealed a fragrant faded roses bouquet and some spice. The tannins were much calmer, allowing the buried fruit to poke through and reveal itself as being rich and elegant with a powerful undercurrent of acidity. Possibly higher score later but for now 90 points

2. Cacheaux Vosne Suchots: The contrast between this and The Girardin was immense. This had a big, sweet nose of cherry liqueur and ripe fruit. It was big and brawny on the palate with a distinct lack of supporting glycerine. Exotic spices in finish some of which is from new oak. Nothing amiss here but it is a bit one dimensional and linear for my taste. 87 points

3. Virgile Lignier Chambolle 1er Cru Cuvee Jules: Gently spicy with hints of Jasmine flowers and tea. Silky on the palate it showcases bright fruit with the oak currently in the background. Medium-full with layers of delicious and accessible fruit. Long finish finally unwinds the packed fruit in a mild crescendo. Delicious already. Big and bold I have no problems in recommending this wine because it has finesse in reserve unlike the previous wine. 90-91 points

4. Laurent Vosne Beaumonts VV: Bigger than the Lignier Chambolle this sports a nose that flaunts bacon and raspberry like fruit . Perhaps too loud and confected. Ditto on palate with lots of creamy "pinot " fruit , vanillin from oak, exotic "pumpkin spice" blend , and a lowish acidity that is unable to enliven the sweet tasting fruit. Delicious as a pinot noir but does not rise to the level of a fine 1er cru Vosne. 88 points

5. Drouhin Chambolle Baudes: Quite reduced at first but does not reek of sulfur; color intensifies with time and the original impression of this wine as wimpy was totally proven otherwise. Even later it was still not showing its best but there was pure silky fruit with decent acidity. Even more charming the next day. Just does not have the density to be excellent but a nicely balanced wine that clearly needs time. Maybe underestimating it. 90+ points

6. Domaine Rion Vosne Beaumonts: Very fine nose with scents of crushed stones and talc. Not shy at all. On the palate the fruit is tinglingly bright and the tannins are velvety. Though it seems on the rich side it maintains its poise and balance. Excitingly good without really having high notes. This is a wine which is not trying to be more than what it is and as a result becomes more than what it is. 91+ points

7. Bertagna Vosne Beaumonts: Plush and full on the nose with "pumpkin-bread spices" on the nose. Has tremendous immediate appeal since the palate is packed with fruit enrobed by gentle tannins. Complexity is not apparent now but I am sure in about 4-5 years the obvious fruitiness will be replaced by other elements. I like it even now except for its hot finish. Unlike the Laurent wine (#4) this does not pall on the palate even if the styles are seemingly similar. 89-90 points

8. Lignier Michelot Chambolle Village: In the company of the above wines this stood out as simple and verging on the dull side. Other Lignier Michelot wines (see previous tasting notes) have been good so there is clearly something amiss here. ???

9. Lamarche Vosne Suchots: Sensational nose sporting bacon and spice that is clearly from new oak, and a sense of crushed red fruits. The palate echoes the nose and there is soft fruit which is velvety and exotic and the wood tannins have been nicely integrated so that the wine has balance and structure to keep it interesting. Elegant and stylish it managed to stay fresh even the next day. 90-91 points

10. Gros Freres Vosne Chaumes: Odd mentholated nose--loads of bacon with hints of cotton candy--enough said--to me it was like drinking pinot noir "port".

11. Duband Chambolle Gruenchers: Unexcitingly fruity with very little hints of much else. Round and resolved (already?) it is warm and gentle on entry but overall too simple for the greatness of this vintage. While I liked it at first, subsequent tastings , w dinner and next day, did not elevate the wine. Enjoyable but not exciting. 87 points