A Tale of 2 Barolos

This past week I decided to see how some 1999 Barolos were faring and chose to open (on different nights) G.Mascarello’s Villero (Castiglione) and A. Ghisolfi’s Bricco Visette (Monforte). I was surprised to see how drinkable both were and yet, though I scored them the same, they could not be more different.
Mascarello Villero 1999: Nose leaps out from glass with soft plummy fruit and hi-toned aromas. Rich and broad on the palate there is little evidence of interfering tannins. Very ripe fruit. Already delicious, if a little low in acidity, this should make a convert of any one who does not understand how great the wines of Barolo can be. If you have any of this wine try it for it is ready to strut. 93 points.
Ghisolfi Bricco Visette 1999: Color was surprisingly darkish while the nose clearly said traditional. Not knowing the producer I would wager that some modern technique of color extraction was employed but the wine was otherwise mostly traditional . Initially I thought the nose was of the level of Grand cru Burgundy , involved and complex, but it then evolved and I envisioned it as an amalgam of Haut Brion with a fine Vosne Cru. In short simply lovely. Here the tannins are bold and yet never aggressive. Fruit is clearly etched with a hint of espresso-like bitterness (which I love in Italian wines) and the finish is firm and long with conviction. While this and the Villero have nearly similar levels of concentration I like the structure on this one a tad more. A modern classic. Try now or wait 2 years. 93+ points