Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Wines of Atillio Ghisolfi

The 1999 Barolo Visette of Atillio Ghisolfi was so impressive that I sought out other vintages of this producer who until now was unknown to me. Here is a brief snapshot of my thoughts on his 2002 and 2000 vintage.
The 2002 was a good example of a producer doing as best as he could with that vintage. It was thoroughly enjoyable even while being dry and meager as I expected. In the right situation, like during summer or with plain charcuterie, this is exactly the kind of wine that would work well. A great effort.

The 2000(89 points) was massive, with tannins and alcohol overwhelming at first but eventually, after 2 hours, evidence of rich underlying fruit emerges with hints of roses and tar. In spite of the richness of the wine it was not as balanced as the 1999 Visette. Moreover the finish was ungainly, port -like and alcoholic. If the only measure of a wines's quality is heft then this would be considered superior in comparison to the 1999. But to my palate the 1999 is a more complete package.

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